Day 53 – 5/5/16
22.0 map / 33.0 GPS miles
789.3 / 862.2 miles total

We got up a bit early and caught a shuttle bus out to the trailhead where we left off yesterday, arriving about our usual starting time of 7am Utah/6am Arizona. There were already what I would consider lots of people in the trail. 

Due to permits, we needed to get all the way across the canyon – “rim to rim”. The Bright Angel trail down to the river from the South Rim is super popular and now I can see why: it’s beautiful. The crowds were rather intrusive, constantly having to step aside or getting stuck behind oblivious tourists posing for photos. 

Down at the Colorado River, we crossed one of 2 suspension bridges to the other side. Half a mile later we reached Phantom Ranch, a cluster of little cabins and a small cafe. Everything is brought in/out by mule and priced accordingly (though some snacks were actually cheaper than the grocery store at the south rim!). We stopped for a break and shared a lemonade, sitting in the air conditioned cantina (it was ~90 F outside), just for the novelty of it. 

We continued up the North Kaibab Trail, which follows Bright Angel Creek, climbing on very gradually for 7 mile or so. It was hot but could’ve been much worse. We had a “shirts off Thursday” lunch and took a quick dip in the river. 

We tanked up on water at the last spigot we know to be on (yes, there are seasonal water spigots at regular intervals along all of today’s route). The final 6 miles or so were much steeper, climbing another 3600′ or something like that. Of course when we got to the top we found the spigot there to be on, argh!

We heard from some AZT hikers last week about a yurt near the north rim trailhead. It’s meant as a backcountry yurt for skiers and snowshoers in winter, but a sign with directions was still posted at the trailhead (the north rim does not open to cars/tourists until May 15). We walked the quarter mile to the yurt and found it vacant and unlocked. Score!